We have a new toy in our shed and are slowly learning and playing with lots of new yummyness for us all.... Checkout these mini embroidery frames and brooches - just two to start with but many more to come. We can't wait to see how you all use them... Great for quick and gorgeous gifts for the special person or occasion..... Below is a tute on how I've been putting them together…
Josephine
This little embroidery frame measures approx 4" from top to bottom with a design area of about 40x60mm. You could do anything in this frame, mini EPP, stitchery, embroidery, stumpwork, tapestry, even just a photograph - anything you can dream of. The kit includes the frame, the inner cutout for framing over and a backing piece. The frames also include a metal wall hook you can glue on if you wish to.
Preparation: our frames are laser cut so depending on the material used some times some residue can be left. We clean the tops before packaging but if using a light fabric you may wish to wipe over all edges inside and out in case any residue (black soot type) transfers onto your fabric. Just use a damp cloth, babywipe or magic eraser.
Method: First, use the inner cutout of the frame to trace around to mark your design space onto paper - draw your design or decide what you will be putting into the frame.
Use a blue water erasable pen (or similar) to trace your design onto your chosen fabric - use a lightbox if necessary so you can see through. I recommend using a large piece of fabric so you can easily put it into your embroidery hoop.
Fuse a lightweight stabiliser to the back of your design fabric. You can use a thin woven or a thicker thin wadding - like Pellon H630 or Parlan to get a more padded or raised effect. Place it into your embroidery hoop having the fabric taut but not stretched. Stitch your design.
Cut out your finished design adding approximately 1/2" on all sides of seam allowance. That's 1/2" bigger than the centre insert piece of wood.
If you used a thicker stabiliser you may want to pull it up and trim it back to the actual size of the wooden insert - so the wadding doesn't wrap around the edges making it too thick.
Using a strong thread make a running stitch around the edge of the seam allowance, place the wooden insert into the centre (wrong side) and pull up the stitches to tightly gather the fabric around the insert. secure. Place the design insert into the centre of the frame, It should be firm, but carefully push it in until the back surfaces are even and flat.
Cover the back with clear strong craft glue and place the backing piece centrally onto it. Use wonderclips or pegs to hold until dry and secure. Glue your wall hook or brooch pin to the back if desired.
I am so looking forward to seeing what you all do with these new little products. We have plans for many more so if you have any ideas or requests please feel free to suggest...
and please share the love and post your designs onto IG with #hnkminiframes and we'll share your beautiful work with all of our friends too....
This weeks block is pieced – and is designed so you don’t have to have perfect points – hence the name ‘point taken’ and is designed by Susan Ache. Susan is Yard Girl 60 on instagram and specializes in machine pieced quilts and blocks.
yes my little elephant is backwards because I lazily traced the shapes onto applique paper without reversing – I should/could have just traced on the shiny side but obviously didn’t – and what does it matter? I at first thought I’d misaligned and decided my not so little elephant is doing star-jumps and will land very soon!
If you want to see my method of needleturn applique I have tutorials available here.
I have been so excited to see so many versions of my blocks popping up over the last week – and although some have struggled with new methods its great to see so many learning and achieving something new….
There have been many photos in the FB group and many on instagram.. Don’t forget to share your block and tag me helen_stubbings (AND follow me) on IG to be in with a chance of winning your own EPP Iron on clamshells.
There are still four more monthly prizes up for grabs.
How exciting is it that I was invited to be a designer in the second series of the Splendid Sampler?
And I even made the cover! so yes, you get my block for free to get one step ahead before the book ships!
We are taking preorders for these books at Quarter Inch - and we'll send you them as soon as they arrive in October - you can order the first one too if you'd like.
The lovely team of Pat and Jane sent me a bunch of fabrics from Moda
Of course many people may not have tried these methods before (and I always like to teach something new to even one stitcher out there) so I won’t leave you in the cold…
You can join in my FREE series of embroidery lessons and learn every hint and tip I can give you (just click on the pic below)
and if you need help with clamshells? well I have a unique product for English paper piecing – they are EPP Iron-ons – yes, iron on leave in epp templates… They are cut from my Applique paper which is a semi water soluble paper with a fusible on one side. So you just iron them on, and leave them in! You can see the step by step tutorial for clamshells by clicking on the pic below.
If you’d love to have the EPP Iron-ons to make your block you can get them here. (and why would you do it any other way!)
And for even more information and free help on my paper and method subscribe to my Youtube channel where there is a ton of information and technique how to’s for you.
To celebrate my day, let’s have a little competition! Over on Instagram…. Follow me (on IG) and share a pic of your version of my block….(don’t forget to tag me so I find it @helen_stubbings)
I’ll choose two new followers over the next two days (for those quick off the batt) – and one tagged pic (per week on Fridays) over the next month to send a free pack of EPP Iron on Clamshell papers to..
I do so hope you love my block, learn a new tip or technique and keep on stitching along with the Splendid sampler team….
Now- don’t get too excited- I'm starting off well but I'm liable not to last too well… I won’t be blogging for every block but the first few I thought I’d tell you how I made my versions and add a bit of help here for you if you are struggling or new to some of these techniques…
So the week two Free block is Milk and Cookies by Rebecca Bryant and has a little applique and a little machine piecing.
I traced the wedge templates onto the dull side of my applique paper and pieced them together using my English Paper piecing method – ie whip stitch.
I then glued and appliqued the centre circle on by hand.
I machine pieced the background block using Kari Carr’s Clearly Perfect Angles tool to assist – and then machine appliqued the circle to the background.
You can find my range of fabrics here
and lots of Videos to help you with EPP, hand and machine applique by clicking on the images below….
Im up next week! so watch this space (blog) and Instagram for some chances to win!!!
How exciting for me to be a part of the second series of the Splendid sampler – so I didn't make the cut for the first one – but hey, you all know about it now so are ready to roll this time..
to download the first 20 blocks – they are going to be released on a Thursday (US time) every week. You just hit the download button and then save and print your pattern.
The first one – Quilt market by Alex Veronelli (of Aurifil thread fame) is already there.
and if you visit Alex at his blog https://auribuzz.wordpress.com/ you can join to WIN! a thread pack of Aurifil – who wouldn’t want that?
Due to my recent studio flooding I didn’t have access to much of my stash so I’ve chosen to use my recently released Basically Hugs purples fabrics – so my quilt is going to be quite ‘lavender calm’ which isn't such a bad thing with a very stressful year thus far…
here’s my version
After the first 20 FREE blocks you will need to purchase the book which arrives in October – we are taking pre-orders for this for our Aussie friends and some have also asked us to get in the first book also. If you’d like to preorder they can be found on our website here.
don’t forget to also join the Facebook group and sew along and share with so many others around the world –that’s the fun of it and it keeps us motivated to stay on track.
OR of course if you are more of an Instagrammer follow the hashtag #splendidsampler to watch everyones blocks – this time there is some really lovely photography efforts being posted too..
Have you been needled about what type of needle you should use in your embroidery projects? Or perhaps, choosing the right type of needle is like looking for a needle in a haystack? One of the most basic and the most important tool in stitching - and the one we certainly can't live without - is the needle. Choosing the right kind of needle for this or that type of embroidery can make or break the stitching experience and the finished project, so spending just a little bit more time choosing is absolutely necessary. Let me share what I know about needles.
Needles come in different range and sizes. There are different types of embroidery that require different types of needles. In choosing the right type of needle to use in an embroidery project, there are several factors to consider like the following:
THE SIZE Remember the golden rule when it comes to needle sizes? The larger the number, the smaller the needle. The type of fabric is also another factor to consider. The needle size depends on the fibre count of the fabric you're stitching on and the thickness of the thread you're using. If your needle is too big for your thread then you will leave large holes in your fabric and your stitches will be loose and wobbly. If your needle is too small then you will hear a pop as you pull the eye and thread through the fabric. This is a harder way to work and wears your thread as it squeezes through a hole that is too small for it to pass through without resistance.
THE EYE The eye of a needle can be long, elongated, round or self-threading. Typically, a round-eyed needle is stronger but harder to thread.
THE POINT The type of fabric you're using determines what type of needlepoint you should use. For a closely woven fabric, you need to use a pointed needle. For knitted fabrics, you should use a ball-pointed needle. For even-weave fabrics like linen or canvas, then you should use a blunt or tapestry needle to prevent splitting of fabric threads. For all my stitchery and embroidery projects Im using a woven fabric - generally quite a tight weave so a pointed needle is essential.
THE LENGTH The type of needlework techniques determines the length of the needle to use. For quilting, you would use a short needle. If you're wrapping threads around the needle, then you would use a long one. Many like to use a crowbar - long and thick as they want that huge eye to make threading easier.... you will have your own preference.
THE WIDTH The width or the diameter of the needle's shaft can taper or widen at various points or it can be consistent all throughout the length of the needle. This is important for things like bullion and wrap stitches. So in some the eye is like a bulge and wider than the shaft, others are a similar width along the entire length.
THE RIGHT NEEDLES FOR HAND EMBROIDERY Of course the type of needle you should use for your embroidery project depends on what type of embroidery you are doing.
So which type of needle should you use for what type of embroidery? Here are the most common embroidery needles and what they are best used for:
CREWEL NEEDLES They are called “embroidery needles” for a reason. Crewel needles are the most common embroidery needles on the market today. These needles are medium-sized, with a medium-long eye and a shaft that is slightly thinner than the eye. The long eye helps accommodate embroidery threads. Crewel needles are used for general surface embroidery work and any embroidery technique that requires a sharp tip. Our Hugs ‘n Kisses Stitchery needles are simply a Crewel#7 needle. This is the perfect size for my type of designs which use up to 3 strands of cotton floss or up to a Perle#12 thread. I have named them a stitchery needle, simply so you instantly know what to use them for. Most simple embroidery stitches (apart from wraps like bullions) can be done with these needles.
Crewels come in sizes 1 through 12 – 1 being the largest and 12 being the smallest. The most popular sizes used in embroidery are sizes 7 and 9.
MILLINER NEEDLES The Milliner needle (also called “straw” needle) has a very long shaft, a sharp tip, and a shorter, roundish eye. The shaft and the eye of a Milliner needle have the same thickness, which makes it the perfect needle to use for working on any wrapped stitches like French knots or bullion knots. Because the eye and the shaft size are the same, it's easy to pull the Milliner through the wraps. The long shaft of this needle makes it easier to wrap the thread around the needle several times. Milliners are traditionally used in hat making. They are also used for pleating and creating fancy stitching or smocking. They have also been very popular for English Paper piecing and applique however I prefer an applique needle for these methods – and I’ll tell you more about those later.
Milliners come in sizes 1 through 11, with 1 being the largest and 11 being the finest. Now here's the slightly confusing part: Milliners also have sizes 15 and 18, with size 15 being larger than size 18.
SHARPS
These are General purpose sewing needles with sharp points and round eyes. They tend to come in mixed packs and are useful just to have for mending, buttons etc but are not often used for embroidery work.
CHENILLE NEEDLES The Chenille needle has a large eye, a shaft that is slightly thinner than its eye and a sharp tip. The sharp tip makes it easier to penetrate closely woven cloth. The Chenille's longer eye is suitable for thicker or multi-stranded threads used for crewel embroidery or ribbon embroidery. Many crewel embroiderers prefer this needle because the eye is thinner, making it easier to pass through on the wool thread, and the sharp tip and large shaft make a good hole in the fabric, easier for the wool thread to pass through unscathed. Chenille’s are also commonly used for surface embroidery with cotton and silks. The sharp tip is perfect for surface stitches, and the long eye that's very easy to thread.
Just like any needle, the lower the number, the larger the needle. Chenilles come in sizes 13 through 26. The most popular sizes are 16 to 26. The most common sizes that are good to have on hand are sizes 18 – 24. They're good for any regular type of hand embroidery. Sizes 13 and 14 are commonly used in working with heavy and coarse fabrics.
TAPESTRY NEEDLES A tapestry needle is a blunt-tipped needle with a large eye. The large eye can accommodate thicker threads, making it the perfect needle to use when dealing with embroidery floss or crochet thread and even bulky yarns. Tapestry needles are best used for weaving in ends, sewing seams (joining squares or pieces together), cross stitching, crochet or knitting. The blunt round point is suitable to use in needlepoint, petit point, plastic canvas work and countered cross stitch.
Tapestry needles come in various sizes, and again, the larger needles have smaller numbers, the smaller needles have larger numbers. Sizes 13 and 14 are suitable to use when stitching on Binca or Aida fabric. Sizes 16 – 20 are perfect for tapestry. Sizes 22 – 28 are more commonly used in petit point and cross stitch.
BEADING NEEDLES Beading needles are essential tools used for bead-weaving and other beading projects. Standard beading needles are very fine and long, with long eyes. These are the best needles to use to string beads in bead embroidery because small beads need a needle with a very small eye. Beading needles are also perfect for sewing sequins and they are quite useful in threading and stringing pearls.
Beading needles are available in sizes 10 to 15. Selecting the right size and type of beading needle will help you avoid broken beads. The general rule is the size of beading needle to use depends on the size of the beads you are using and whether you will be completing multiple thread passes through the beads. Choose a short beading needle when attaching beads to fabric.
QUILTING NEEDLES Quilting needles (also known as Betweens) are very short and fine, with a round eye. They are perfect for quilting because the shorter length allows the quilter to create quick and even stitching. These needles are also narrow and sharp, with a small rounded eye. Their short length makes it easy to control while creating tiny, accurate stitches. Traditional hand quilting involves running stitches through layers of fabrics. The thickness and sharpness of quilting needles make them strong enough to penetrate multiple layers of fabrics with ease.
Quilting needles come in sizes ranging from 3 to 12. Big Eye Quilting needles have big eyes for easy threading, and they come in size 10. The recommended quilting needle sizes for beginners are sizes 7, 8 or 9, and when comfortable enough, try a smaller size.
APPLIQUE NEEDLES
Applique needles are nothing in particular, every brand or company tends to use what they like or think you should use and put their name on it. There are therefore many variations. For applique and English paper piecing its important that the needle is sharp and fine. A large or big eye of course makes threading easier. We have our own preference for applique needles and package them as such so there is no confusion. Our needles are not too long (so won’t bend easily or at all - I cannot work with a bent needle so need to discard it once it bends – like a milliner needle), are still fine – about equivalent to a size 10 – and have a large eye – which is the most important part for our demographic with many of us reliant on glasses! Checkout my video on our needles.
And another with a nifty way to thread them…
Whatever type of embroidery or quilting work you are doing, if you use the right needle, you will definitely enjoy the sewing experience and therefore, produce the best finished piece. Just imagine the frustration when you find out your needle won't pass through the thick fabric you've chosen to embroider on or when your needle left large holes on the fabric! Avoid all these horrors by choosing the correct needle before you start.
So many exciting things happening in 2018, where do I start? I’m currently having just a few days off but madly trying to design, stitch and prepare some exciting programs and projects for you all to tempt those stitchery senses...
So let's start with - where will I be around the country in 2018.
Our first event right here in Hobart is the Gathering - Stitch with Helen and Lynette (Lynette Anderson designs) on Sunday March 4th at the Newtown Bay Rowing Centre. There are just a few spots left so don't leave booking for this one too late.
Next will be our annual visit to Melbourne for the Australian Quilt Convention - I am almost ready to start my take and teach project for this one - remember they sell out very fast each morning of the show - any requests?
April 5-8th 2018
Next is my first of three trips to South Australia - yes girls, you asked (so many times) and so, I am coming....more than once - I hope you don't get sick of me :)
The first is for 'Chix that Stitch' - by the beach, at Wallaroo - 2 hours west of Adelaide. My lovely friend and ex quilt store owner Sue is venturing into the world of events - sharing her passion for stitching and quilting with all of you... Dates are : Saturday and/or Sunday 21st/22nd April 2018
My next trip west is to teach in Whyalla with Gail Pan for the lovely Ruth of Pretty Country Things in June. This sounds like a beautiful weekend and I don't think I've been to Whyalla for maybe 40 years (my Aunt lived there and we visited as young kids often) - will I see you there?
And finally wed 19th-Sunday 23rd September I will be back in Adelaide teaching at the Australian Machine Quilting Festival once again... Registration for classes open late March, but check out the teachers and signup for the newsletter so you know when they are open - they sellout fast!
And I think that's enough for you and I to think about for now... back to the design board for me to get projects and class samples done for them all... I hope you might also be enjoying a small break over the Christmas/New year period (preferably without the holiday cold I have been enduring) and are looking forward to the year ahead...
So much to tell you about my last few months, but let’s start backwards with our wonderful but busy weekend just gone..
Over 100 lovely like minded ladies joined us in a wonderful setting to share, stitch, laugh and play….
Jo had worked her magic and made us all feel welcome and loved..
The girls in the kitchen fed us well (a huge thanks to Tessie who baked all week and Adrienne for making multiple scones and all of our other wonderful friends and helpers (Linda, Donna, Monique, Molly)
sorry no pics of the delicious desserts but let’s just say I’m still enjoying the leftovers…
Projects were stitched with focus and concentration….
and of course lots of shopping temptations….thanks to Judy and Jo
so…. do you want to see the new projects they stitched?
First it was the Soft and pretty Serendipity Ipad pouch using Moda fabrics – Lily and Wil
And one for us: The Stitchers’ Santa stocking. Make this one for yourself (or a stitching friend) – hang it with the kids or grandkids stockings and it may just be filled with the stitching things you love!
We have a few kits left if you want a few last minute Christmas gifts to stitch…
And we have opened bookings for our next Gathering if you too want to share the joy of stitching with us here in Tassie.. We have Lynette Anderson as our guest tutor so places will fill quickly.
