Hugs from Helen

Stitched Sunday – the knot!

Today we are going to look at the two most used knots – the French knot and my preferred –the Colonial knot. People do these knots in many different ways so I will show you how I do them  - take it or leave it – if your way is better, feel free to keep doing it and if its really really better then share it with me.

 

Firstly, as always – I cant do them without a hoop – you need two hands to do the knot so you need the hoop to hold the fabric taut.

Okay, bring the thread up from the back and hold it tight in your left hand (of course if you are right handed)

Place the needle under the thread

with the left hand bring the thread over the top of the needle, underneath then back over the top – that is, wrap the  thread once around the needle

Place the tip of the needle back through the fabric just one thread (of the fabric) away from the hole you came up through – don’t go down in the same hole or you could just pull your knot straight back through

now, very important this bit – pull the knot – or the wrap – down close onto the fabric so its firmly around the needle (this stops loopy knots from forming because the knot forms up the thread instead of hard against the fabric)

Then while holding the thread on the fabric with the left hand, take your right hand under the hoop and pull the needle through.

Ta da – your first french knot

Now I was taught that a french knot is only ever one wrap and if you want a bigger knot you need to use a bigger thread or more strands –BUT I have to admit that I am guilty of doing up to 3 wraps when I want some a bit bigger and cant be bothered changing threads and as long as you pull them tight onto that fabric it generally works.

Now the French knots Colonial sister – this is traditionally used in the technique of Candlewicking which was worked with the white candlewick thread onto white or cream fabric. I prefer this to the French knot as because of its twist it sits much more nicely on the fabric. The thread goes down through the middle of the knot and anchors the stitch straight on to the fabric right where you want it. French knots sometimes tend to lie down or tip over after a hard night and are then not so consistent.

so, here’s how we do it – just a little bit trickier until you get it..

Bring the thread up and again hold it tight with the left hand. Place the needle to the left of the thread

then take the needle under the thread and back over the top

Then turn the needle so it is horizontal to you

then with the left hand bring the thread over the top and around the needle

   

place the tip of the needle back through the fabric one thread away once again from where you came up.

Pull that knot tightly onto the fabric as before.

hold the thread and pull the needle through to the back.

and I have been known to do more than one wrap for these also when a lightly larger knot is needed  - please don't tell the embroidery police!

So, here is the Colonial knot at the top and the French knot down the bottom  - both with one wrap and the same thread.

Knots such as these are used in many places – of course great for eyes and dots on letter ‘i’s , but also for accent, as an outline, as a filler stitch – the uses are endless.

here are a few from around my home:

Used as an outline for Trapunto

a sort of candlewicked effect with some eyelet work.

This was an Inspirations project – in a very early issue – see the coloured french knot fillers – then the white on white to form a subtle oval shape.

You can see a lot more inspiration and ideas on my pinboard here

Now a variation to the knot is the pistol Pistil stitch. This is worked in exactly the same manner (you can use the French or the Colonial knot) EXCEPT you put the tip of your needle down a distance away from where you brought it up – this makes a straight stitch with a knot on the end. I have to say Colonial knots are best for this as then the stitch stays exactly where you wanted it to be.

And we are going to try it in our page today! You can download it here. Download Frenchandcolonialknot

I have stem stitched the heart outlines, chain stitched the circle and then whipped it. Outside the circle is pistol Pistil stitch and everything else is done with knots – you can choose which knot you prefer and use either.

happy stitching – hope you enjoy this one!

hugs for today

Helen

PS – apologies for my gardening fingernails – If I had a personal manicurist and a few more hours in the day they would be stunning…

Stitched Sunday – satin stitch

Some people are terrified of satin stitch and I can understand that – it does take practise to get a nice even looking stitch – but boy its worth it when you do. It is not quick and it does take a lot of thread also.  The most important thing is tension so a hoop I think is imperative for a nice result.

so, into the hoop you go. now remember, these are my tips and instructions – I am sure there are many other ideas and versions out there, but this is what gets the best result for me.

Firstly I always outline my area to be satin stitched. You can outline with any stitch really – backstitch, split stitch would the two I use mostly but you can use a small chain stitch, stem stitch and more.

Split stitch is good (but slower than backstitch) because each stitch is really locked into place and cannot be pulled out of shape when using it as an outline for the satin stitches over the top. To do a split stitch:

first take a single stitch as you would for backstitch

instead of going back into the same hole the previous stitch came out of (as in backstitch) place the needle halfway along the previous stitch splitting the thread in half.

continue in this manner around your whole shape.

and finish by splitting the first stitch again.

Now we use this outline as our border or holding shape to lay th satin stitches over. For circles I like to start in the centre. Bring the needle up right under the outline stitch. I bring the needle up flat on the fabric so that the angle of the thread comes from tight against the outline stitch.

then bring it across to the opposite side (now you need first to decide on the direction of your stitches and all stitches need to keep evenly in this direction) and again with the needle flat on the fabric take it down right in under the outline stitch on the bottom edge.  

bring it up again on the opposite side one thread to the left or right of the previous stitch.

now as i said the important part is the tension of your stitches. If it is too tight your piece will pull, not sit flat and go out of shape, if too loose the stitches will sag-  we want them to sit flat and firm and lay straight snuggly next to each other.

When you take your second stitch you need to ensure it lays flat right next to the first one, use a finger to position as you tighten if necessary. continue laying stitches next to each other across the shape, then return to the centre and work the other way until your shape is covered. 

so three points to note: tension, stitches all going at same angle and laying flat next to each other – some things to help here

use a hoop, the angle of the needle as it enters and exits under that outline stitch and let your needle dangle from time to time so that there are no twists in your thread – this will not help in laying them flat and straight – they will twist and want to go all over the place.

Some further examples:

This one has been outline stitched after with a backstitch- stem stitch is also often used to outline after – I sometimes think if I outline its really to cover up my bad satin stitch edges!  But it can also be used for effect as in this example.

Padded satin stitch – a variation. Outline your shape and then fill it roughly with straight stitches or seed stitches – just randomly. Then satin stitch over the top – this makes your satin stitch really sit up from the fabric and is very dimensional.

I mentioned the stitches all going in the same direction on the same angle – for ribbon type designs this is sometimes difficult so you need to decide where to start. If you look at the centre of each ribbon segment below and make that your directional point – ie in the centre you will go straight across (across) the shape, then turn slightly as you turn the segment along the ribbon – to turn, you place the stitches closer together on one side and slightly wider apart on the outer curve. Satin stitch is really only good for smaller shapes. If you have a large shape to fill you may like to divide it into sections and satin stitch each section at a time or use a brick stitch (like an offset satin stitch) or a long and short stitch as is used in thread painting techniques.

So onto this weeks page for practise. You can download it here… Download Satinstitch

A few more samples I found quickly around my house and many more on my pinboard here. 

  

Stitched Sunday – Chain Stitch

Last week we learnt a single chain stitch  - or detached chain or lazy daisy. This week we put more than one together to make a chain stitch – yes, it looks just like a metal chain with many links interlocked together.

 

So, into your hoop with a threaded knotted needle we go.

bring needle up at start point (A) and take it back down in at point B (one thread away from point A)

Bring the needle up at Point C with the thread under the needle

Pull through the thread until your loop is sitting nicely (not too tight or you’ll have a straight petal) Now, heres the difference, put your needle back down into the fabric inside your loop (one thread away from point C) and bring back up the same distance away along the line, again with the thread under the needle. 

Continue just like this along your line. Now you can do large open stitches or smaller stitches which will look like a chunky straight line in a full design. Just keep them even for the best look.

There are many many variations to the chain stitch but lets just start with this today…

Are you ready for a new page? Download CHAIN STITCH

I used 2 strands of perle in this design for a chunkier look. Remember if you are using a stranded cotton to strip the threads (take your strands out one at a time and then lay them back together before threading into your needle)

Some more examples in my studio and some examples to be found on my pinboard here…

 

hope you have had a lovely stitchy weekend – I have had interstate visitors so not a lot done in my hoop, but plenty of inspiration in my mind

hugs, Helen    

lazy daisies on a Sunday

this week we would like to introduce the Lazy Daisy – sounds alike a great Sunday Stitch doesn’t it?  Also officially known as a detached chain stitch – a single chain stitch that is – next week we’ll put them altogether in a ‘chain stitch’.

When marking a chain stitch you can mark just single line or a dot at each end. I normally wouldn't mark the actual curved outline as your thread may not sit exactly on the curves and your markings may show.

Bring your threaded needle up at A

Take it back down at B (which is the same hole as A)

and bring it up again at point C

  With the thread under the needle pull the needle through but do not over tighten the thread. You want a nice gentle curve to your stitch – after all it generally represents a petal or leaf when used in this manner. Take the needle back down at C outside the curved stitch – make sure the thread is not twisted under the needle or your stitch wont sit nice and flat. if you pull the thread too tight you will get skinny straight petals of all shapes and sizes – nice curves are best girls!so this makes a tiny little stitch over the thread of the petal stitch

  pull through until it is sitting nicely – this is your first petal or lazy daisy or detached chain stitch.

Now if you are doing several petals to make a flower it is good to start with a small circle in the centre rather than a dot. you can get a nicer flower shape if the petals sit on the edge of this circle rather than trying to get them all into the same centre dot. a flower looks good naturally with five petals. To help me get these petals evenly spaced i think of a man with his arms out and legs stretched – use your imagination now :)

Stitch a petal on each spoke or leg/arm/neck – keep them fairly even in length and see the inner points all sit on the edge of that circle

 sometimes its nice to fill the petals with a second lazy daisy stitch in side – you can use a contrast colour (or not) and then fill the centre with a french or colonial know (which we haven't learnt yet!) – all flowers have centres don't they?

 and there you have it – of course all rules are made to be broken, a few more examples below or here on my pinboard – you will use this stitch very often I am sure.

this one is on your stitch book girls so you will be using it when we get that far..

so, our page for this week can be downloaded here. Download DETACHED CHAIN STITCH

I did a double stitch in the centre flower – and a stem stitch on that circle. and a triple stitch on these petals as they were quite large and needed some more filling.

keep up the great work girls, and thanks to those sharing in the flickr group – have you been and had a look – some great results happening.

happy Sunday stitching!

hugs, Helen

Stitched Sunday – Stem Stitch

This week we learn the simple and widely used stem stitch. This would be the most commonly used stitch in traditional redwork and fancywork of our mothers and grandmothers. It is a good stitch to outline designs or cover lines and gives a slightly thicker or heavier look than a plain backstitch.

I like to work from left to right when stitching a stem stitch and always use my hoop.

Bring your threaded knotted needle up at A on your marked design line.

Take you needle down at B and back up at C –(note that A, B and C are all equal distance apart) – the thread should be sitting below the needle.

Pull the thread through until firm – the thread is coming from the top of the centre of your stitch.

Take your thread down equal distance away from B.

and bring it up at B in the exact same hole you came up through before – again the thread should be below the needle.

Continue in this manner – notes: every entry and exit point should be on your drawn design line. The stitches will stack on top of each other by half – so half a stitch is over half of the previous stitch.

The Stem Stitch’s first cousin is the Outline stitch – this is worked in exactly the same manner except the thread sits above the needle at all times.

Variations:

Whipped stem stitch

use a contrasting colour to whip your stem stitch – just like you did with the back stitch – pass the thread through each stitch.

You can use it as a filler stitch

Keep the stitches small to get smooth curves 

See some more examples and inspiration on my pinboard. 

Okay, you can download your page pattern here now and get started, I’d love to start seeing some of your creations – do we need a flickr page? Who wants to start one..

Download Stemstitch

hugs and happy stitching

Helen

Stitched Sunday lesson 2 - backstitch

Firstly, if you are not a knotter like me – but a purist – you may like to take a look here to see an alternative to using a knot. Bookmark this new blog whilst you are there, there is going to lots to share including a free pattern from moi.

This week we are learning the most used stitch in basic stitchery designs -  backstitch

it is great to outline almost anything, best for text and writing and can be even used for filling.

and here’s how – just in case you don't know..

bring your knotted threaded needle up at A – I like to work from right to left

Go back down at point B and up again at A – note all of these points are exactly on the marked line – not one thread to the side, not even half a thread to the side but exactly on the line.

pull your thread through, firmly but not stretched or distorted

This is the most important step – take your needle back down at point B in the exact same hole as the previous stitch went in. this is a continuous line stitch so we don't want little gaps in the line because you missed the hole – it also means you will have nice even straight lines.

see, exact same hole- give it a little tug to open the hole if you cant get your needle in there..

It is important to use a very sharp needle for this stitch (more on needles later) so that it can be inserted exactly on that line –it may even need to split a thread in the weave to get on the line – a blunter tip will just slide to a natural space in the weave which may not be on the drawn line exactly – these are the finer points of getting a nice backstitch.

length? – well personal choice but it must be even the whole way across a design (well I think it does for the best look). If you have curves in your design this may determine your stitch size  - if they are too long you will get jagged curves.

but nice little ones will give you lovely smooth curves.

I generally use a length of about 1/8 inch – 2-3mm

 

variations include whipped backstitch

with a contrasting thread come up below the stitch, over and down through the top of the next one

or an interlaced backstitch

go up under one stitch

then over and down through the next one

and there you have it, combine it with other stitches or just use it on its own for a simple stitchery design.

This is your practise piece or page for this week. Download it here.  Download Backstitch    

here are some more samples snapped around my studio

  

take a look at some more inspiration on my backstitch pinboard here.

Now, as mentioned, a few notes on needles for your info bank:

there are many but here are a few that I keep in my Needlebook and use in all forms of embroidery

 

quilting needles are very fine, with a tiny eye the same diameter as the needle shaft and a very small eye  - used for hand quilting and larger ones can be used for needleturn appliqué.

Various sizes

Appliqué needles – sharp point, very fine, small eye – need to be fine so as not to make large holes in the side of the applied piece when needleturning.

various sizes

Crewel needle – universal needle for embroidery  various sizes generally 5-10 (note the higher the number the smaller the needle). Sharp point, large long eye – easier for threading. The size of needle is determined by the size of your chosen thread. The thread should feed through the eye easily and the shaft size should make a large enough hole in the fabric for the thread to pass through without wear and tear. I use mostly a #7 or 8 Crewel needle with up to 3 strands of stranded cotton or a perle #12 or 16 type thread.

A Chenille needle is like a very big crewel needle. It has a sharp point and a long large eye. Sizes are bigger –generally 18-22 – used for ribbon embroidery, wool embroidery or larger thicker threads.

A tapestry needle has a rounded blunt point, large long eye and a thicker shaft. Used for embroidery that is done on an even count type fabric like canvas, cross stitch aida cloths etc – a rounded point so your needle slips into the hole rather than splitting the woven canvas or splitting your threads.

Milliner or straw needles – long, even width shafts all the way,sharp point and small eye – used for bullion work – smaller sizes are also good for needleturn appliqué –because the shaft is even diameter for the complete length of the needle the wraps used in bullion style stiches slide down the shaft evenly.

very long, very narrow shafts, very small eyes and sharp points –used for applying beads to projects – the narrow shaft and same width eye allows them to pass through the tiny holes of even the smallest bead. – not very strong and easy to bend because they are so fine.

 

So my most used needle and the ones I have used in all of our Stitched Sunday projects so far are Crewels…. make sure you have them in your sewing box for great results. 

have fun learning and practising a perfect backstitch

hugs for today

Helen

Oh one final note – using a hoop will get you the best and most perfect backstitch- if you are not using one yet, have a try and see the difference…

Stitched Sunday Lesson one

are we ready? are we ready? can’t hear you…..

okay, so here we go.

Today we are going to start with the simple Straight stitch and  running stitch. As stated last week there are two methods of stitching – the stab method or the ‘scoop’ method (my word) which is what I use and will show you – but both work – use what you prefer. Put some scrap fabric (with stabiliser applied) into your hoop to practise and learn.

Straight stitch

This is the most simple of stitches you can get! one up and one down…..

Bring you knotted threaded needle up at point A

Return the needle to the back at point B Pull thread to back until firm (but not so tight that the fabric pulls)

and there you have done your first straight stitch! – now this is really a stab stitch – one step at a time.

Now if you were doing a lot of single straight stitches you can use the scoop method. As you go down at B, bring the tip of the needle back up at the start of your next stitch.Always go back to the start side to begin your stitches  - this gives a much nicer tension.

 

For this design I always started my stitches in the centre.

Cross Stitch

Now put two straight stitches on top of each other and you have a cross stitch.

   Running Stitch

lots of straight stitches in a row with a gap in between

Bring your knotted threaded needle up at A

take it down at B and then scoop back up at A (when using the scoop method it is the finger sitting on the back of the hoop that is important  - it needs to push the needle backup into the exact position it needs to be)

Pull through and have the thread tight enough so that it is sitting flat on the fabric BUT the fabric should not be puckered at all.. 

You may choose to do a row at once – as many stitches as you can fit onto your needle – this works best on straight lines –not so much on circles.Running stitch can be even – that is the length of the stitch is the same as the length of the gap OR

You can have a long stitch and a smaller gap – just make sure they are all even.   The length of the stitches depends somewhat on the design. In my patterns and iron on transfers my running stitch is printed as dashed lines so the length is determined for you. The length would need to be shorter on circular designs so that you get nice curves rather than spiky  circles… the most important point is that they are all even.   Variations include whipped running stitch – you complete the running stitch first then with a contrasting thread you whip the running stitch. for whipping pass the threaded needle under a straight stitch, over the top and back under the next straight stitch.   Interlacing is another option. This time pass the needle down through one straight stitch and then up through the next one.  

Some more examples of running stitch – used on appliqué here – it makes a good outline or accent stitch.

 and on our page fabric.

I have collected a lot more photos, ideas and inspiration on my Straight and running stitch pinboard – you can look and peruse here.

before we get onto our first project I must tell you how I end off a thread!

Bring the needle through to the back and run it under the closest stitch you can see. This will form a loop. Pass the needle through the hoop and pull tight. I like to do this twice just to make sure its tied securely. Trim the end.

  

Have you mastered these stitches – time for homework!

We are going to be making pages as reference to put into our finished stitch book at the end. Now of course you don't have to do these but the simple little designs will be posted each week. You may use them for something completely different – i don't care, but I'd like to see what you do with them.

So you need to cut your page fabric into pieces 7” x 8 1/2”. Trace the design centrally onto them using a lightbox and then attach your chosen stabiliser.

into the hoop and away we go. download the pattern here.

Download RUNNINGSTITCHSAMPLER

I have stitched my words in backstitch –which you haven’t learnt yet, you could stitch it with a running stitch or a pigma pen! 

hugs and happy stitching!

Helen

sneak peeks

I have had several comments asking how you can get iron on transfers for our Stitched Sundays – well basically, you cant… well you could order them and have them posted each week but you wouldn't be keeping up and it really wouldn't be very economical for you. But if you use Transfer eze or a transfer pencil – but really the designs I'm using as samples (that will be downloadable for you each week for free) are not huge – can’t give you too much homework – so  I really just recommend getting the light box and ceramic pencil out and tracing them. It wont take you long at all.

Have you been following along on my facebook page?  I have been stitching every night and showing peeks of what's to come for you there.. go take a lookie….

So, are we ready for our first real class on Sunday? I will actually be in Adelaide showing lots of wonderful stitchers how to do this in person  at Inspired Stiches. But never fear, the post will go up in the morning and you can all happily start your first page!

a little more inspiration for you:

These are closeups of a needlebook I designed and made many years ago when I was a true embroiderer :) I’ll show you it all later.

hugs until Sunday,

Helen

Stitched on Sunday basics

Preparing to stitch

Transfer your design to the fabric by:

iron on transfer

Use a hard ironing surface – if your ironing board is soft and squishy use a towel or woollen blanket on a bench – if you don’t you will get blurry lines.

TURN OFF THE STEAM AND EMPTY ALL WATER FROM IRON. Have the iron as hot as possible without scorching the fabric.

Press the fabric first to warm it up.

Remove any markings from your transfer sheet that you don't want on your fabric! – cut it off and just leave the design bit.

Place paper transfer face down onto your fabric.

Place iron and press firmly on top – hold for about 7-10 seconds – every iron differs so you may want to test on a scrap first. Do not slide the iron across the paper. Use a finger to hold down the paper, lift the iron and reposition to the next spot. Carefully lift a corner to see if it is dark enough. The longer you press, the darker it will be but the less number of times you can use the paper.

IF you follow these instructions to the letter your transferred design will have lines just as thin as those on the paper.

    

Light box and pencil

Place the design sheet face up on a light box or a window light source.

Place the fabric right side up on top.

Trace all elements of the design using your ceramic pencil, or mechanical pencil, purple pen (if you are going to stitch now) or pigma pen.

Attach stabiliser

Following the manufacturer’s directions fuse your stabiliser to the back of your fabric. If not using a fusible, baste or hoop into position.

For Iron on Pellon – you use a steam iron – so you can fill it up again now!

Hooping your work

If using the plastic hoop with a lip place the inner ring – lip side up on a surface.

Position the prepared fabric right side up on top.

Loosen the screw

 

and place the outer ring over the top and lower until the lip pops through the top of the outer ring.

tighten the screw and then pull the fabric from the sides to tighten it. Finish tightening the screw.

The fabric needs to be taut but NOT stretched. If you over stretch it, it will spring back in and appear puckered once you remove it from the hoop.  

For a scooping stitch method such as I use you need to be able to reach the centre of your hooped fabric – I prefer a 6” hoop but an 8” is also fine.

When not stitching – remove the fabric from the hoop to prevent permanent creasing of your fabric or distortion of the weave.

 

Threading the needle        Yes I know, a real basic but there may be some who have trouble with this, so a few tips:

Cut the thread end with your lovely sharp special embroidery scissors on a 45 degree angle. Hold the end of the thread between the thumb and finger of your left hand (if right handed) and pull the thread back until you can no longer see it.

Push the eye of the needle onto the thread (you know where it is you just watched as you pulled it in)

hold the thumb and finger together until you have passed some thread through the eye, just enough to grab it and pull through further. By pushing the needle onto the thread instead of pushing the thread through the needle, you are keeping all those little fibres tightly together as they pass through the eye..

If you still have trouble try turning the eye of the needle around – or the thread to the other end. In most cases you should find it easier to thread the end you cut from the reel.

 

knotting the end   I know, another simple thing but this is my favourite method of doing a knot – hopefully you can ‘get it’ by these step by step pics, Maybe a video version to come if you can’t.

Place the threaded needle in your right hand.

place the long end of the thread between the thumb and finger where its holding the needle.

With your left hand wrap the thread three times around the needle.

Pull firmly down inside your thumb and finger.

hold the needle tip now with your left hand and with the right thumb and finger pull the wraps down the length of the thread until you reach the end.

and you will have a knot! If you need a bigger knot for loose weave fabrics use more wraps. It never fails!

now, if you can just twirl a thread with a quick flick and come out with a knot – go for it – i have just never perfected that technique that Grandma used!

 

If you are thinking – why a knot – you can’t use those – sorry, I'm not the embroidery police, nor will I ever exhibit in the Royal School of needlework – I stitch for pleasure and just want finished results – I think knots are fine and whatever works for a great result on the front – who cares, what’s on the back.

 

I think that’s enough for one day :) I’m sure you have lots to share with me about your techniques or versions of my knots! please do… and I’ll get onto stitching next weeks first page!

hugs for today

Helen

Welcome to Stitched Sunday

I am sooooo glad you have joined me in the passion of stitching and embroidery. I will be sharing with you everything I can think of along the way that my Grandmother taught me, that I have learned from many embroiderers, teachers, books, articles and learned by experience along the way. Please share any comments, tips or ideas back to me and the many others following along. Just leave a comment on the related post. You will be easily able to follow along and the posts will remain on the blog so don't panic if you have another appointment on a Sunday – just use the category feature bottom right to search all posts in the class at once.

Today I am just going to go through the materials I will be using and demonstrating with. If you wish to follow along exactly and end up with the lovely book of stitches shown above then start collecting now. Or you can just do the bits you like, use your stash and materials available to you. Some things I have on my website – and I’ll let you know if I do – to help you find them easily but most things you will know and love already or you can find at your local stores.

Requirements for Stitch book cover

A wool kit – available for $10 inc Postage (extra postage for overseas orders) from The Quilted Crow

Outer fabric one fat quarter

Lining fabric – one fat quarter

16” x 12” batting

Threads: I used

Cottage Garden threads #401 Delphinium, #101 Forget me not

(Available here)

Presencia Finca Perle threads #1724 soft pink, #5229 sage green

Requirements For the pages: We will work on pages to include in the stitch book as we learn our stitches along the way.

Fabric to stitch on – any  finely woven quality plain fabric – I am using a quality Quilters muslin in cream.

 

A stabiliser – most fabrics require a stabiliser to be placed on the back to get a nice result with even tension – no thread movement showing through to the front. The exception would be when using wool or wool flannel type fabrics. There are many to choose from.

I like fusible pellon – H630 – this is a very lightweight batting and fuses to the fabric with an iron. It gives a lovely quilted appearance and hides any crossing of threads on the back of your work. (available here)

 

You can use a woven lightweight interfacing such as weaveline

or another batting type product called Parlon – a little thinner than pellon. (available here)

Although I'm not going to say you HAVE to – I highly recommend using a hoop! it is an extra hand and holds the fabric taut whilst stitching saving cramps in your hand, giving much nicer even tension and cleaner work. I simply cannot get a suitable result without one.

There are many brands available and many are not expensive. I prefer the plastic hoops which can be tensioned very tight – they have a small lip on the inner ring to hold them firmly and a sturdy screw tightener. (available here) A 6-8” is best for general use – you need to be able to reach the centre of the hoop with your underneath finger.

Threads: there are thousands of thread varieties available. We are going to be learning several stitches which can all be done using several thread types. If not using exactly what I used or a similar weight thread get yourself some basic stranded cottons. These are widely available from many companies and are cheap and very useable. We will talk more about threads later in the program.

I used these cottage garden threads – stranded which are available here

And Presencia Finca Perle #16 threads (these are equivalent size to 1 1/2 strands of a stranded thread – they will be available here  but not for a little while.) You can more easily find Perle #12 threads and these will also be good for our project. 

  

Embroidery scissors – spoil yourself with a beautiful pair of special embroidery scissors – and DO NOT let anyone near them – a sharp pointed small pair is essential for a positive experience..

Marking pencils

There are many available – my favourites

A sewline ceramic pencil (available here)

 

The new Sewline air erasable pen – only stays on 2-7 days so for small projects and quick marking (available here)

You can use just an ordinary mechanical lead pencil or a pigma pen – but use care when marking not to make any mistakes as they wont be removable. 

All of my patterns are fortunate to have an iron on transfer included so this is the easiest way to mark if working from a pattern.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Needles

We will be looking at needles more later but for this project and stitchalong I recommend starting with a Crewel needle set - #7/8 or a mixed set of needles – they usually come in a set of 5-10 sizes. Crewel needles have a large eye and a sharp point and are most commonly used for stitchery and many embroidery stitches.

              

If you cannot find them or are isolated you can get them here.

 

Okay, now you have a week to collect and prepare for our first real lesson next Sunday.   In a minute though another post with some basics of embroidery.

hugs and happy stitching

Helen